A Mon (d)Avis
Robert Mondavi
Napa Valley
Chardonnay
2014
$29.95 LCBO
I mentioned in an earlier post that Robert Mondavi is one of my favourite producers, and I often look to the Napa cab as a "safe-bet" bottle or recommendation. What I failed to mention is that I don't often have access to the other varietals under the Robert Mondavi label because the LCBO offers such a limited selection. Recently, however, the LCBO decided to list the 2014 Chardonnay so it was a no-contest that it would be reviewed and compared to my previous Mondavi experiences.
What I naively expected of this wine was the Kendall-Jackson California Chardonnay profile: big, oaky, and buttery. What I got was right in line with the typical Mondavi style: refined, elegant, and stratified flavours. Part of the refinement comes from Mondavi's characteristically dry wines; the 2014 chard coming in at a tart 2g/L of residual sugar. This is undoubtedly linked to the lack of "bulk" found in this wine, and allows the acidity to take center stage. The colour of this wine tells you absolutely nothing about what to expect from the flavours or mouth feel, as it pours a yellow-tinged clear, but blows you away with its complexity and balance. On the nose, there are predominantly floral notes that lend a fresh, crisp quality to the wine, and a lingering sweetness akin to maple. On the attack is definitive green apple with citrus notes and a hint of oak from its time in barrel. Complimenting the refreshing fruitiness of the dominant flavours is a spiciness leant by the robust alcohol content of this particular vintage (14.5%), which in a red may not be as notable but is less common in whites. The smoothness and complexity of this wine is most obvious in the finish, which is long and gives the distinct impression of having just enjoyed a caramel apple, with its persistent flavours of crisp apple, mixed with the creamy, warmer notes of oak and maple.
While this bottle sent me for a bit of a loop at first due to my ill-conceived expectations, it turned out to be quite a pleasant surprise, offering up far more than I could have asked for. As the weather gets colder up here in the North country I generally opt for heartier reds, but this Chardonnay did not back down in the face of heftier adversaries. This bottle maintained its elegance and class, while demonstrating depth, body, and fullness of flavour, without giving into the butteriness generally found in California chards. A Chardonnay may not be your reflex when picking a bottle on a crisp fall day, but this one should certainly be considered, if as a pairing for a warm home-cooked meal, or as a "kick" to a batch of hot apple cider!
Yours in all things wine,
Christine
Napa Valley
Chardonnay
2014
$29.95 LCBO
I mentioned in an earlier post that Robert Mondavi is one of my favourite producers, and I often look to the Napa cab as a "safe-bet" bottle or recommendation. What I failed to mention is that I don't often have access to the other varietals under the Robert Mondavi label because the LCBO offers such a limited selection. Recently, however, the LCBO decided to list the 2014 Chardonnay so it was a no-contest that it would be reviewed and compared to my previous Mondavi experiences.
What I naively expected of this wine was the Kendall-Jackson California Chardonnay profile: big, oaky, and buttery. What I got was right in line with the typical Mondavi style: refined, elegant, and stratified flavours. Part of the refinement comes from Mondavi's characteristically dry wines; the 2014 chard coming in at a tart 2g/L of residual sugar. This is undoubtedly linked to the lack of "bulk" found in this wine, and allows the acidity to take center stage. The colour of this wine tells you absolutely nothing about what to expect from the flavours or mouth feel, as it pours a yellow-tinged clear, but blows you away with its complexity and balance. On the nose, there are predominantly floral notes that lend a fresh, crisp quality to the wine, and a lingering sweetness akin to maple. On the attack is definitive green apple with citrus notes and a hint of oak from its time in barrel. Complimenting the refreshing fruitiness of the dominant flavours is a spiciness leant by the robust alcohol content of this particular vintage (14.5%), which in a red may not be as notable but is less common in whites. The smoothness and complexity of this wine is most obvious in the finish, which is long and gives the distinct impression of having just enjoyed a caramel apple, with its persistent flavours of crisp apple, mixed with the creamy, warmer notes of oak and maple.
While this bottle sent me for a bit of a loop at first due to my ill-conceived expectations, it turned out to be quite a pleasant surprise, offering up far more than I could have asked for. As the weather gets colder up here in the North country I generally opt for heartier reds, but this Chardonnay did not back down in the face of heftier adversaries. This bottle maintained its elegance and class, while demonstrating depth, body, and fullness of flavour, without giving into the butteriness generally found in California chards. A Chardonnay may not be your reflex when picking a bottle on a crisp fall day, but this one should certainly be considered, if as a pairing for a warm home-cooked meal, or as a "kick" to a batch of hot apple cider!
Yours in all things wine,
Christine
I like it!
ReplyDeleteThank you! The wine or the review? ;)
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