Coming On Strong

Rodney Strong
Russian River Valley
Pinot Noir
2014
$25.95 LCBO

     It's no secret that I love Rodney Strong, but it isn't bias speaking when I say that this wine is what Pinot Noir dreams are made of. It should be noted that this is not the only year of this wine that I've tried, and for that reason I need to stress that not all vintages are created equal. The 2014 of this particular wine, however, is stand out and if you're inclined to try it, you should do so soon because the LCBO is beginning to stock the 2015s of these and my review does not apply to that vintage. 

     Now I don't want to hear any of you saying that you flat out "don't drink Pinot Noir because it's boring/too light/fruity". While you aren't entirely wrong, since cool climate Pinot Noirs from Ontario or Bourgogne tend to be acidic and lighter bodied, it is important to keep in mind that like with all other wines, climate makes a huge difference. So just as you're likely to get a fuller chardonnay from California than from Chablis, the same applies for Pinot Noir. The 2014 Rodney Strong tops my list because it is the prime example of what a Pinot Noir can achieve; sure, it isn't as rich as a cab or merlot but it still boasts above-average complexity that makes it well worthy of high praise. 

     On the attack, you're met with everything that reminds you of North American holidays: cranberry, familiarity, and unmistakable warmth. Admittedly, the warmth comes from a fairly dominant alcohol presence, but since the tannins are so low in this, the alcohol contributes an additional layer of depth. As the wine develops in your mouth, it is much like watching a mirage appear and dissipate in front of you: oak floats by, catching your attention, then morphs into leather, dried fruits. It isn't sweet, isn’t dry; not heavy, not thin... It even has a hint of that ripasso style that reveals all the nuances of the grape. It goes down hot in the back of your throat, and finishes long, leaving you rediscovering its many facets ages after the last sip is gone. 

     At the 25$ mark, this wine is an absolute steal, putting far more expensive P. Noirs like Sanford to shame. Add this to your "drink when you're sad... or virtually any other time" list, because if this doesn't make your taste buds smile when you drink it, I don't know what will.
     Yours in all things wine,
                              Christine


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