A "Living Room" Kind Of Wine

Estancia
Paso Robles
Cabernet Sauvignon
2014
$22.95 LCBO

     My dad is much like a lot of other wine drinkers his age: “all California wines are garbage.” Okay, he didn’t say that, he said “stop buying Californian wines,” but that isn’t the first time I’ve heard people bash the region. For those that don’t know, many wine producers (especially in California where there are fewer regulations) use a process called ‘malolactic fermentation’ to soften (generally red) wines and make them more approachable to a broader demographic. For some wine buffs this is undesirable because it tends to strip away a lot of the varietal characteristic and the personality of a vintage. You’ll often hear this referred to as a wine being “jammy” and it is often said with nose in air. This has been the California stereotype since the era of 80s blush roses, but it is far from the truth. California is a huge state, spanning multiple latitudes and topographies, making it near-impossible for all wines from the state to be the same. From the north coast you find brightness and tons of structure, from Napa and the surrounding regions you get refinement and elegance, and from the south you’ll taste warmth and loads of fruit. Needless to say there is something for everyone, and if you’re open-minded enough to ignore the stigma, California has a lot to offer.
     One such offering is the Estancia cab sauv from Paso Robles, which is a city in the lower half of California. This wine supposedly clocks in at a whopping 2g/L of residual sugar, which given its higher than average fruit-forwardness, is very hard to believe. On the nose the fruit is balanced by a definite acidity and the alcohol is not afraid to make its presence known as it warms your airway. It tastes almost too sweet at first sip, but as I am one to take even my coffee without sugar, anything remotely sweet takes me a minute of adjustment (ha, get ready for my icewine review!). What happens over the course of a few sips is that the perceived sweetness falls to the wayside, making room for an abundance of tart red fruit, like cranberries and cherries, and mellow oak and earthiness. What I like most about this wine is that, initially, it seems completely devoid of tannin, however after a couple of sips you start to notice that ever-familiar drying out of your tongue and everything falls into place.
     This bottle is more affordably priced than some of the other wines on my page making it an excellent “everyday” bottle or an easy gift for teachers! While some may be quick to judge a wine based on its geography, those who ignore the mass opinion and select wines based on personal preference or a desire to explore new options will always be rewarded. Don’t ignore the name; enjoy a bottle of this with friends in your living room, and no one will be nay-saying Cali when you’re done.
     Yours in all things wine,
                              Christine

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