Spellbound
Celler Masroig
Les Sorts
DO Montsant
2013
$21.95 LCBO
The French translation of "Les Sorts" is "spells" as in those cast by witches, which is appropriate considering we're coming up on Halloween, but don't be mistaken; there was 100% lucidity during this review. At Celler Masroig they refer to this as a "sycar," as it is a blend of Syrah and Carignan, which has about the same amount of literary refinement as the Australian GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre). The first problem being that in Spanish, Carignan is actually "Cariñena," and the second being that it is as obvious as simply stating the varietals. Ten points from Gryffindor. Fortunately, the disappointments end there - and have nothing to do with the actual wine.
While this wine has only four years of age behind it and an impossibly low 2g/L of residual sugar, the nose and the attack offer up a pronounced Ripasso-style sweetness of dried fruit. Occasionally this flavour can be associated with barrel aging, of which this wine has 14 months, but to have such a distinct raisin-y characteristic that has me convinced that some of the grapes were partially dried before pressing. Having a hard time imagining this flavour and/or smell? Think Amarone; rich, concentrated, and infallibly mouth-watering. However, what the Les Sorts has which traditional Ripassos do not is the spiciness attributed to it by the pepper from the Syrah. This rounds the already complex flavours of leather and apricot out to a wine with both personality and backbone, furthered by the not-subtle yet not-overwhelming tannins. Unfortunately, I have to admit that I'm biased; anything with that dried grape smell on the nose - aged ice wine, Sauternes, Amarone - automatically gets sorted into my "like" list, because it allows you to appreciate all of the aspects of the grape, the vintage, and the final product of the wine. There is something bold about the choice of concentrating the flavours of the wine in this way, as it seems to say: "here I am, unrepressed and intense, and it is up to you to figure me out."
I've mentioned that memories are one of my favourite things about wine and that still holds true, but my second favourite thing is mystery: a flavour you can't put your finger on, a perceived sweetness that does not match the wine's actual sugar content, or a sense of deja-vu from a wine you've never tasted before. Any and all of these things are what make wine so magical and wonderful, and of these Les Sorts has no shortage. Add this to your "drink and think" list, because it is sure to get those gears turning.
Yours in all things wine,
Christine
Les Sorts
DO Montsant
2013
$21.95 LCBO
The French translation of "Les Sorts" is "spells" as in those cast by witches, which is appropriate considering we're coming up on Halloween, but don't be mistaken; there was 100% lucidity during this review. At Celler Masroig they refer to this as a "sycar," as it is a blend of Syrah and Carignan, which has about the same amount of literary refinement as the Australian GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre). The first problem being that in Spanish, Carignan is actually "Cariñena," and the second being that it is as obvious as simply stating the varietals. Ten points from Gryffindor. Fortunately, the disappointments end there - and have nothing to do with the actual wine.
While this wine has only four years of age behind it and an impossibly low 2g/L of residual sugar, the nose and the attack offer up a pronounced Ripasso-style sweetness of dried fruit. Occasionally this flavour can be associated with barrel aging, of which this wine has 14 months, but to have such a distinct raisin-y characteristic that has me convinced that some of the grapes were partially dried before pressing. Having a hard time imagining this flavour and/or smell? Think Amarone; rich, concentrated, and infallibly mouth-watering. However, what the Les Sorts has which traditional Ripassos do not is the spiciness attributed to it by the pepper from the Syrah. This rounds the already complex flavours of leather and apricot out to a wine with both personality and backbone, furthered by the not-subtle yet not-overwhelming tannins. Unfortunately, I have to admit that I'm biased; anything with that dried grape smell on the nose - aged ice wine, Sauternes, Amarone - automatically gets sorted into my "like" list, because it allows you to appreciate all of the aspects of the grape, the vintage, and the final product of the wine. There is something bold about the choice of concentrating the flavours of the wine in this way, as it seems to say: "here I am, unrepressed and intense, and it is up to you to figure me out."
I've mentioned that memories are one of my favourite things about wine and that still holds true, but my second favourite thing is mystery: a flavour you can't put your finger on, a perceived sweetness that does not match the wine's actual sugar content, or a sense of deja-vu from a wine you've never tasted before. Any and all of these things are what make wine so magical and wonderful, and of these Les Sorts has no shortage. Add this to your "drink and think" list, because it is sure to get those gears turning.
Yours in all things wine,
Christine
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